I’ve been getting very antsy in my underemployment. After a day of negative productivity, it was clear that I needed to get out of my apartment. I was in the mood for a good coffee, so I did a little research to find a café that was open fairly late. I came across Café La Poesía in San Telmo that sounded like the perfect spot to sit and relax with a good drink. After waiting forever for the ever-elusive bus ninty-three, we made it to San Telmo. The café is a few blocks from La Casa Rosada on the corner of Chile and Bolivar. Similar to my other favorite spot, La Poesía is filled with knick-knacks, old photographs, and a lot of charm. I especially liked the antique seltzer bottles they had, which always seem to remind me of San Telmo. The boys ordered beer brewed in-house at La Poesía, while I enjoyed an Irish coffee (that came with a delicious piece of cornbread!). I refrained from taking any pictures to prevent looking like my usual dorky self, so I stole a few from Google. I can definitely see myself frequenting La Poesía on a regular basis.
Once we were done at the café, we walked around San Telmo and Microcentro to find a bus back to Palermo. It was really nice to see all of the government buildings near Plaza de Mayo lit up, and I particularly enjoyed how peaceful Microcentro is at night compared to the normal chaos of the downtown area during the day. The evening reminded me that I never shared our day at the San Telmo market, so stay tuned for that (belated) post!
There are a few women I look up to when it comes to cooking and baking…my mom, Aunt Judy, family friend Meg Messina, and my best friend Mia’s mom Karen (oh, and my girl Martha). Before leaving for Buenos Aires, Mia’s family insisted on having me over for dinner, which I was obviously very excited for since Karen is one of the best cooks and bakers I have ever met. Karen of course delivered and the meal was amazing…I was particularly obsessed with the pasta she had made that night (I had to actively tell myself to refrain from going in for thirds), which was fusilli in a cream sauce with sausage and peas. After harassing Mia for the recipe, similar to this, I decided to give it a try and make it on my own (and by on my own I mean with the help and supervision of one of my roommates). It came out really great, almost as good as Karen’s, so I’m pretty proud of myself (and my roommate). The boys pointed out that it looks a little like brains and guts thanks to the tri-color fusilli and de-cased sausage, so instead of lovingly calling it Pasta a la Klein, we’re going with Halloween Pasta.
My one roommate likes avocados. And by likes I mean loves, because he consumes more avocados than any person I have ever met before. After watching him add avocado to his scrambled eggs, sandwiches, and salads, I guess its safe to say that I caught the avocado bug as well. I bought some veggie burgers to break up the chicken-chorizo-steak rotation, and thought mango-avocado salsa would be the perfect compliment to them. I was worried at first since we got to our produce stand late and missed all of the perfectly ripe food. However, this salsa came out great. I think its officially time for me to move past making salsa and start cooking some real food…stay tuned!
After running a few job-related errands, one of the boys and I decided to visit the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires, better known as MALBA. Our trip got off to a slow start…my roommate got lovingly shit on by a Buenos Aires pigeon while waiting at the bus stop. After a quick shower and change he was good to go, so we made our way back to the bus stop and hopped on the sixty-seven.
We were unsure of where exactly we needed to get off, so we asked a man sitting next to us and ended up getting help from everyone in our general vicinity (those porteños are so friendly). Our new friends told us where to get off, and after about five minutes we arrived at the museum. For fifteen pesos (a cheap date spot according to my poop-covered roommate) we were able to view the art at MALBA. The first exhibit we went through was a temporary exhibition by Matías Duville called Safari. The artist uses multiple different mediums, but we viewed works made with charcoal, pastels, and mud, among other things.
After, we looked through the permanent collection, which is made up of twentieth-century Latin American art, my favorite being a huge painting by Antonio Berni.
Antonio Berni, La Gran Tentacion
The last exhibit we visited was Panamericano by Brazilian artist Beatriz Milhazes and was my favorite exhibition at MALBA. Milhazes uses beautiful bright colors in her works and I couldn’t help but snap a few pictures in the no-photo zone.
Before leaving we stopped and the gift shop and I purchased a few postcards with images of my favorite things from the museum. I loved MALBA so much and can’t wait to go back.
Although I am excited to be skipping winter this year, I am a little sad about missing my favorite time of year, which is autumn. After spending a decent amount of a rainy afternoon on Pinterest, I came across so many recipes that reminded me of fall, I couldn’t help but make something. I decided to make this since it was fairly straightforward and the ingredients were easy to get at my produce stand. It took a little longer than originally anticipated since we only have one small saucepan, but I will count it as a success. A little sweeter than I thought it would be (I definitely went a little overboard on the orange juice), it was still very flavorful and just what I needed to remind me of autumn back home.
Now that we’ve graduated from EBC and have our TEFL certificates, the boys and I have a lot of free time and have been doing a lot of exploring. Between interviews and on our days off, we’ve gone to different neighborhoods in the city and visited all of the places we have not seen yet. One rainy Sunday we ventured to Belgrano to find Chinatown. We got lost at first, but Belgrano is not the worst place to walk around aimlessly. It’s a more residential neighborhood with beautiful buildings and tree-lined streets. Its also very peaceful and quiet compared to where my apartment is. While looking for Chinatown we walked through a park that had a huge tree whose branches looked like an elephant’s trunk.
After asking a few locals for directions, we finally made it to Barrio Chino. Our main goal for our trip was to find peanut butter since it’s hard to find here. We spent a good amount of time in a specialty food store that literally had everything we could possibly want and cannot get anywhere else in the city. We ended up getting peanut butter, teriyaki sauce, babaganush, and dulce de leche (yum). We also got street food while in Chinatown (giant grilled pork dumplings and fried food on a stick) and it was so delicious and definitely worth a trip back.
The next day we visited the Recoleta cemetery. We went on a perfectly overcast day to match the eeriness of the burial ground. Giant mausoleums fill the cemetery, which houses the remains of Argentina’s elite. It is unexpectedly peaceful and calm rather than spooky, and I look forward to visiting the cemetery again when I have a little more time to explore the rows and rows of tombs.
Our next trip was to La Boca to see El Caminito. Since arriving here, we have been told by multiple people how La Boca isn’t the best part of town. El Caminito is a pretty touristy area about a block long with beautiful colored buildings and a lot of local character. It rained right before we arrived, so the street cleared out and we had the place entirely to ourselves, which come summer, will never happen again. La Boca was not as bad as people had warned and I hope to go back to see a Boca Juniors soccer game.
Our last stop on the poor man’s tour of Buenos Aires was Puerto Madero. The complete opposite of La Boca, Puerto Madero is a very chic part of the city with newly built high-rises and restaurants. The docks at Puerto Madero are no longer used for Argentine shipping, but are now home to two museum ships. For two pesos you can explore each of the ships. It was so cool and I felt like a little kid again as I crawled through every inch of the boats.
It was fun to explore the city and be a little touristy for the past few days, and I’m excited to do some more sightseeing in the weeks to come.
Around the corner from our apartment there is a parilla that we eat at pretty often. It is relatively quick, the food is good, and it is of course convenient since its right around the corner. We’re trying, however, to branch out and explore our neighborhood a little and find new places to get a good, quick meal. The boys came across a place called Mark’s Deli and Coffee House that got great reviews so we figured we’d give it a try. The food was delicious, but I was more excited about the neighborhood around Mark’s.
Mark’s Deli and Coffee House.
Deeper into our neighborhood Palermo SoHo, the streets all become cobblestone and the shops and cafes are so pretty. After doing a little window-shopping I couldn’t resist stopping in a store that my sister would call “a Kelsey store.” The store, Bendito Pie, reminds me of a smaller scale Anthropologie. The clothes were beautiful, with vibrant colors and patterns and a laid-back, bohemian vibe similar to Free People. My current obsession from the store?…adorable printed loafers that come in multiple different patterns that are perfect for walking around the city.
After a few weeks here, it is safe to say that I am not a very good cook. As much as I wish I had inherited that trait from my mother, I did not, which frustrates me a little. After a couple of failed attempts making dinner, it was clear I needed some help, so I of course turned to Martha Stewart. One thing I am usually embarrassed to admit is that I love Martha…she once came into the store I worked at over the summer and I became so star-struck I had to run into the back and compose myself. I’ve baked a few recipes from her website, but have never cooked a meal by Martha, so I figured I’d give it a shot (lets face it, I can use all the help I can get). The boys wanted chicken, so I found a recipe that sounded pretty delicious and extremely simple. With (a lot of) help from one of my roommates, we made cayenne pepper chicken with avocado salsa and it was a great success (finally!). The chicken was flavorful with a little kick, but the real showstopper on the plate was the avocado salsa. Overall, it was a very successful meal…thanks Martha!
Stolen picture from MarthaStewart.com, but ours looked just as good!
Since our graduation from Delaware and our arrival in Buenos Aires, we’ve all been trying to find our “spot.” At home we all had our go-to bars where we could get a few drinks and hang with friends before going out for the night. After sampling a few places in our neighborhood, I think we’ve found some front-runners. The boys found great spots here and here, but I was in the market for something a little different. One of my roommates suggested a bar in Palermo Hollywood that he went to a lot when he studied abroad here, and it is perfection in my eyes. The bar, Acabar, is decorated so cool, I instantly fell in love. A little shabby-chic and pleasantly cluttered, the bar has mismatched tables and chairs, adorable antique chandeliers hanging from the ceiling, and floral printed wallpaper throughout the space. I also loved all of the old photographs and paintings that were hanging on the walls.
The other cool thing about Acabar is that they have tons of old board games that you can play while enjoying your cocktails. They have everything from giant Jenga to checkers. Apparently I need to practice my checkers skills after losing terribly to one of the boys (damn triple jump!). Acabar also serves my favorite South American drink, piscola. Any establishment with board games and pisco is my kind of place.